Mill Marks and Proof Cloths

When Irish Linen damask was being produced, one of the most important stages was the weaving of a "proof cloth". This was a sample which would allow the design to be examined in detail and any alternations made before the weaving of the cloth would begin.

Irish Linen damask is usually white and it would have been almost impossible to inspect the design sufficiently closely if the sample had been woven in just one colour. The proof cloth would be woven in 2 contrasting colours, and it could then be viewed and inspected more easily.

On a recent visit to the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum near Belfast I was shown a number of proof cloths in their collection. Although I knew about them, I had never seen one first hand before. The plain part of the design was in an unbleached natural colour and the design was woven in a brick red colour, providing a great contrast. Although not the finished article, they were really quite impressive in their own right!

Above is an example of a napkin proof cloth, which recently formed part of an inspiring project undertaken by the BBC's Radio 4 and the British Museum. In 2010, with the collaboration of schools, museums and individual listeners, a list of 100 objects was collated and resulted in 100 15 minute programmes entitled "The History of the World in 100 Objects". A detailed account can be found on the BBC's website.

I think it just wonderful that a piece of Irish Linen Damask should have been deemed important enough to have been submitted for consideration to this project.

To each of the 4 corners of the napkin you can just make out a tiny shamrock shape. This is known as a Mill Mark. John Shaw Brown was one of the first weaving mills to include this subtle branding on their linens, and it was usually applied only to their finest quality damasks.

Each mill would have its own distinct emblem, a Fleur de Lys or a Lion Rampant for example. Sadly there was no central record kept of which mark related to which mill and only a few are known about and recognised today. 

I am fortunate enough to have come across a wonderful monogrammed set of napkins recently which carry the distinctive shamrock mill mark of John Shaw Brown's factory. Snowy white with an intricate design of irises and passionflowers, they are fine examples of the most lovely Irish Linen Damask. They have been skilfully monogrammed in red and white stitching.

They date from the 1920s I believe and are just beautiful. I would love it if they could tell us some of the dinner party conversations they have overheard through the years!

The vocabulary of linen!

One of the things I just love about the textile world is the way that the vocabulary has evolved over the years.

Growing up in Belfast one of the words I often heard used was "huckaback". It always struck me as a funny word, where could it have come from and why on earth did it seem to be used to describe a linen towel of all things?

Well as the years passed and my love of textiles grew, my curiosity finally got the better of me - what on earth was huckaback and what did it do?

Well, it appears that the word may have come from the word "huckster", or a pedlar who sold their wares, often linens, in markets. Also it my be derived from the Dutch word "hoekster" from the 12th century, someone who carried things on their back, as the pedlars did. This woven linen cloth is also known as "huck" and refers to the pattern woven into the cloth. The patterns produced had an uneven surface, which made them more absorbent and after use, they also dried more quickly. This type of weave was ideally suited for towels.

In Ireland the huckaback towel was not only a functional item, but it became more embellished as time went on and there are some wonderful examples of huckaback towels with elaborate damask designs woven to the borders. At home we had simple hemstitched towels with the distinctive diamond weave, but there were also more special pieces, which would be used when guests came to visit.

This piece came from my mum's linen cupboard and you can see the beautiful damask border alongside the practical huck weave in the body of the towel. The best of both worlds.

Interestingly this type of diamond shaped pattern was also known as "diaper". In the 15th century this was the word used to describe the very absorbent fabric that was well suited to both towels and napkins, which were used to keep babies dry. The USA adopted the word diaper, but here in the UK we still call them "nappies", derived from the word napkins, also made from linen.

So finally my curiosity was satisfied, huckaback is a small woven raised pattern, usually in a diamond shape, which is exceptionally absorbent and mostly woven in linen, Irish Linen of course! Well, not exclusively..... More common in the early part of the 20th century, this great fabric is still available today.

But it isn't just functional, it can be pretty too. I have collected some really lovely guest towels over the years - here are just a few. Hand embroidered or appliqued, they became the "must have" item for the cloakroom of any home from the 1930s onwards.

I would bet that the bathrooms in Downton Abbey were graced with huckaback bath and hand towels woven in high quality Irish Linen. Probably ones like this, with finely hemstitched edges and weaver's mill marks to the corners. The mill mark was only applied to linen of the finest quality - but more of that another time.